At first glance, Curecanti National Recreation Area appears nothing more than a local angler paradise. Three reservoirs stretch across approximately 60 km of the Gunnison River, hosting the most common varieties of trout, as well as Kokanee Salmon.
An abundance of opportunities for other outdoor activities exists on this stage nearly as old as the earth itself though. Geology is the foundation of this region, and an entire ecosystem among the sweeping mesas surrounding fjord-like lakes and deep craggy canyons along the southern edge of the West Elk Mountains.
The area is only a portion of the geologic feature known as the Gunnison Uplift, which began about 60 million years ago during the Late Cretaceous — Early Tertiary. Mountain building during the time reactivated former fault block surface and created new stress in Precambrian basement rock. Later, beveled flat by erosion just before succumbing to volcanism, all tributaries in the area divert around this area except one, the Gunnison River.
Forming at the confluence of the Taylor and East rivers in Almont, Colorado, the stream travels approximately 25 km out of the foothills of the Elk Mountains and into the Blue Mesa Reservoir.
The reservoir is the largest body of water in all of Colorado, at around 30 km long, with approximately 150 km of shoreline. It is also the largest fishery in the United States for the Lake Trout and Kokanee salmon that call this place home.
As the most developed section of the Recreation Area, it hosts multiple camping and picnic sites, boat launches, a marina with a restaurant, the Elk Creek Visitor Center, and three relatively easy hiking trails; Neversink, Cooper Ranch, and Dillon Pinnacles.
Each stands solid on its own merits, but the Dillon Pinnacles Trail leads to one of the more spectacular, yet typical erosional formations found in the park. Standing guard over the Sapinero Basin, solidified lava flows intermixed with coarse fragments from previous volcanic episodes piled 300 meters have weathered beautifully.
The trip out to the base of this feature is about 6.5 km round trip, across a well-worn trail that passes through sagebrush, ponderosa pines, and riparian habitats. In addition to the namesake, the trail also offers fantastic views of the reservoir and the San Juan Mountains far to the south.
One need not make the entire journey along the trail just to photograph the formation though. It is massive enough to capture when it comes into view after ½ km. Very likely, the best view is just a short trip further down the road, from the opposite side of the reservoir, where a paved pullout offers accessible access to the full panorama of the formation and the reservoir.
Standing firmly at the west end of the reservoir, the Blue Mesa Dam marks a distinct transition into the deep and dark Black Canyon portion of the Morrow Point Reservoir. Visitors have two options here; continue on US-50, or turn and cross the dam on CO-92.
Either path provides access to the most recognizable formation in this section, the Curecanti Needle. This spire-like monolith of Precambrian intrusive igneous rock rises approximately 240 meters from the floor of the canyon at Blue Creek.
The composition of the rock in this formation is so unique as to define itself as Curecanti Quartz Monzonite, and its appearance, inspiration for the logo of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad that once passed under its shadow.
While there is no easy path for one to stand at the base, or climb its crumbling heights, it is observable from the Pioneer Point Overlook along CO-92. The effort to arrive near the base of this formation is substantially different however, depending upon the route chosen.
Those looking for a more relaxing afternoon are likely to be more interested in the US-50 path. It hosts one relatively easy trail, which also happens to lead to the launch site of an enjoyable and educational boat tour through the Black Canyon.
The Pine Creek Trail is a short 1.6 km hike down into the canyon following the creek down a well-maintained stairway approximately 50 meters. After that, the trail is a mostly flat and level stroll along the former narrow gauge railroad bed that follows the Gunnison River to the launch point of the Morrow Point Boat Tour, and a little beyond.
Advance reservations are required for the boat tour, which runs twice daily from June through September. The hour and half journey, on a partially covered pontoon boat seating about 40 people, drifts from the Pine Creek Trail, past Chipeta Falls and Curecanti Needle, down to Kokanne Bay and back again. Along the way, a Ranger-led discussion explores the geology, wildlife, early inhabitants, the railroad, dams, and reservoirs of the Black Canyon.
For folks seeking a more challenging path into the depths of the canyon, US-92 takes one to three overlooks, two of which host trails down to the Morrow Point Reservoir. Hermits Rest and Curecanti Creek trails are both time-consuming and strenuous, due to extreme change in elevation. The trip down is not particularly difficult, but the trip back up will definitely challenge some.
The least strenuous of these is the Curecanti Creek Trail. While the elevation changes on the other two trails at approximately ½ km, it is half as much on this trail. The 6.4 km round trip follows the creek as it falls to the reservoir, ending immediately across from the Curecanti Needle. Anyone attempting to cover both trails on this side in one day will likely want to plan to camp at the end of Hermits Rest Trail; although, both have campsites that include picnic tables and fire grates, as well as toilets.
At the end of this deep, long, and narrow Morrow Point Reservoir, the 143-meter concrete double curvature thin arch Morrow Point Dam stands primarily as a point of production for hydroelectric power. Capacity is almost twice that of the Blue Mesa Dam upstream, and it is the very first of its kind built by the Bureau of Reclamation in 1967.
Only two defined trails exist beyond this point, within the Crystal Reservoir section. The Mesa Creek and Crystal Creek trails are both relatively easy paths, one significantly longer, the other at reservoir level. The views become even more dramatic though, as the true depth of the canyon reveals itself further. Access to either trail, if traveling east to west, again depends upon the route chosen at Blue Mesa Dam.
The Crystal Dam holds back the Morrow Point Reservoir. Constructed in 1976, of the same type as the Morrow Point Dam, it also produces a minor amount of hydroelectric power, but its primary purpose is water flow stabilization in the lower Gunnison River.
While there are no significant hiking trails downriver from this point, within the recreation area, the East Portal Road provides access to the last remaining impediment to the Gunnison River, the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, and one last point of interest.
One of 9 points where the Gunnison and Uncompahgre Rivers divert part of their flow to irrigate over 75,000 acres in Gunnison and surrounding counties, the Gunnison Diversion Dam and Tunnel are an engineering feat and a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark.
Completed in 1909, at a cost of nearly 3 million dollars (nearly 80 million in today’s currency), the 9 km tunnel claimed the title of the longest irrigation tunnel in the world. The water diversion tunnel affected the Uncompahgre valley on a massive scale too, doubling the population by 1923, and making it one of the richest farming valleys in the nation.
Visitors cannot actually see the tunnel, but do pass over it along East Portal Road. At the base of the dam, interpretive signs tell the story of the tunnel and the town site that once stood there, whose foundations remain visible today.
A campground available near the base of the dam, shaded by Box Elder trees, provides sites on a first-come first-served basis. There are 15 sites available from May through October, with toilets, tables and fire grates.
From this location, the Black Canyon of the Gunnison South Rim Visitor Center is just a short 10 km hike or drive along East Portal Road. This is not a road for large vehicles though. It is a steep and narrow road, restricted to vehicles less than 35 meters in length.
This is truly a magnificent place to visit, serving a wide variety of archaeological, ecological, historical, and geological interests. It also provides plentiful opportunities for swimming, boating, hiking, horseback riding, and of course fishing and hunting, with appropriate permits.
The earliest known visitors to the park 10,000 years ago left very little evidence of their passing, but enjoyed the wealth of seasonal hunting and fishing as much anyone today. Always “Leave No Trace,” lest you attract undue attention.
Throughout the park, an abundance of wildlife roam freely. Visitors, especially those hiking should be aware of their surroundings at all times. American Black Bear, Mountain Lions, and Badgers call this place home, along with Fox, Bobcat, Skunk, and a variety of other species.
Further Reading
