Tucked into the wooded hills of north central Saline County, near a former bend of the Missouri River, is a rare opportunity to examine three thousand years of Native American history up close.
Glacial deposition and natural weathering formed these mostly unremarkable loess hills. They are like many others across the state, near the river, and most folks probably drive right past without even noticing.
Native Americans recognized the strategic importance of the hills though. Aside from the fact that the river and marshes provided for all of their needs, a commanding view from the tops of these hills ensured control of any and all transportation along the river and surrounding countryside. Most native and foreign expeditions did not progress up river without the consent of the Missouri Indian tribe that inhabited this region.
In depth of study of this tribe, and those that came before, continues today on site at Missouri’s American Indian Cultural Center. Also serving as the Visitor Center for the park, the center hosts displays interpreting the cultural history of the Native American tribes of the region. Also included among the displays are early maps of North America, similar to those relied upon by the Lewis and Clark Expedition.
The Native Americans had almost vanished by the time Meriwether Lewis and William Clark came along though. European disease and warfare with other tribes had reduced populations dramatically. Lewis and Clark estimated only about 300 maintained an existence when they passed through.
By the time Abel Vanmeter arrived in the 1800s, the Native Americans had moved on or been forced out. The family tended their farm on the land for nearly 100 years, leaving the Native American portions mostly undisturbed. In 1932, they deeded the land to the State, and the Civilian Conservation Corps developed the park and shelter houses in use today.
The park hosts six different trails, but the most interesting to me was that chosen for this particular hiking adventure. The Earthworks Trail, a 2.8 km hike, winds up the hills through the forested part of the Oumessourit Natural Area and into an open area known as “The Old Fort.”
An earthwork fort built about 300–500 years ago by the Oneota people, the grounds measure approximately 300 meters long by 120 meters wide. Constructed along the edges of the narrow ridge it straddles, embankments and ditches enclose roughly 2.5 Hectares. It is truly an amazing feat of engineering, when one considers it was likely built with little more bison scapula tools and a lot of hard labor.
While archaeologists still do not really know the purpose of Old Fort, it appears somewhat obvious. Standing in the middle of this area, imagining how it might have looked then, defense was of the utmost importance. An attack could come from anywhere, at any time, by anything.
There are arguments against this, primarily since the site lacks any evidence of palisades, typical in most of these arrangements. There does not appear to be any need though. The entire situation is a palisade by its very nature. Any guards posted would have been able to see anything coming for miles.
Nothing could breach trenches or embankments without someone knowing well in advance. Trees were absent from the area at the time, and one could see down into the trenches, along all of the embankments, and down the hillside from any vantage point in the area. Additionally, tribal cultures avoided night operations, leaving wildlife the only concern after dark.
Finding the trail late Autumn can be a challenge. Leaves obscure the obvious, but continues at the other end of Old Fort. Someone without much thought towards usability had decided upon green trail markers. In an area that is typically green and forested most of the year. This seems like a choice that might need reconsideration.
The trail continues past the signs and on into the forest for a few hundred meters before emerging at another clearing. More appropriately placed to greet visitors than the last set, a couple of signs present a short discussion of the burial mounds immediately in view, and the village site beyond.
There was not much more to see. It splits another direction on the other side of the Old Fort. While the path on the right was not hazardous, it was a bit tighter and a more strenuous climb.
Van Meter State Park was a fantastic site, just a couple of hours east of Kansas City, hosting relatively well-maintained trail. It also contains picnic sites, a playground, and a couple of group shelters. Nearby are basic and electric camping areas, complete with modern restrooms and a shower house. Additionally, the park hosts an 18-acre fishing lake, along with a couple more trails that meander the edges of the water.
Further Reading
