Along the western edge of Colorado, red sandstone monoliths and sheer wall canyons define the northern edge of the Uncompahgre Plateau, a distinct and massive uplift portion of the much larger Colorado Plateau.
Home to Colorado National Monument, it is one of the few places throughout the Colorado Plateau where rock formations from the earliest periods in the history of the Earth are clearly visible, as well as a good portion of the remainder of the geologic time scale for the area.
While it was not discovered by a certain John Otto, this individual ensured it remained relatively intact and accessible for future generations of explorers. After seeing the red rock canyon just south of Grand Junction in 1906 he wrote that “they feel like the heart of the world to me. I’m going to stay and build trails and promote this place, because it should be a national park.”
John spent years collecting petition signatures, spearheading fundraising campaigns, writing news editorials, and blazing some of the first trails into the canyon. Indeed, one of the first blazed for the newly proclaimed monument in 1911 was the Serpent’s Trail, designed exclusively for automobile traffic.
While the trail is no longer open to vehicle traffic, the spirit of his idea remains in the 37 km Rim Rock Drive, which is probably one of the best means of seeing the monument. One can start from either end, but the most interesting views are going to come to those entering from the east entrance to the park. If you can wait for the visitor center until the last, this is definitely the way to go.
There are multiple stops along the way where one can step out to the edge of the cliffs and admire the beauty of geology on a grand and sweeping scale, or even a minute sedimentary scale. The views from high atop this perch bordering the Grand Valley inspire a feeling of awe at the beauty of nature and the forces that created this place.
At every turn, cliffs and canyons created over time expose history, weathered, exposed again, and weathered further. Visible in the distance, from just about every stop is the Roan Plateau on the opposite side of the Grand Valley.
Choosing to enter from the East, Devil’s Kitchen Picnic Area is the first stop, where folks can have a little lunch before carrying on their adventure into the park. The original auto route, Serpent’s Trail is also there.A series switchbacks follow, slowing rising 300 m and passing through a tunnel in the rock to Cold Shivers Point and a breathtaking view of Columbus Canyon below.
Passing along another short stretch from there, leads to Red Canyon Overlook. This hanging canyon frames the City of Grand Junction below. Ute Canyon View comes quickly after that, with an awesome sweeping view of the wide crumbling water eroded canyon. The Upper Ute Canyon Overlook a couple of stops further up gives folks a chance to get a little closer to the canyon walls too.
That is getting just a little ahead of things though. First, one must pass through the highest point along the route, which is approximately 2 km above sea level and then perhaps make a quick stop at Fallen Rock Overlook for more photos.
For those interested in getting down into Ute Canyon and out to Liberty Cap, the trailhead is just before Fallen Rock Overlook. Otherwise, forge on to the Upper Ute Canyon Overlook for a closer look at the canyon walls and an interesting formation resembling a sarcophagus standing on end.
The next stop is a bit further up and into the next canyon, but about half way along another opportunity to hike out to Liberty Cap comes available at a trail of the same name. which crosses over Mesa Monument, with beautiful views of Monument Canyon below. The trailhead for the Black Ridge Trail is here too, just on the other side of Rim Rock Drive.
Highland View seems to be named for awesome views of the surrounding highlands. There is no trail access here, and one could possibly slip over the edge and wander about, though the relative steepness of things here seriously discourages that venture.
The next trail access point is up and around a few bends, overlooking Upper Monument Canyon, at Artists Point. The namesake for this location seems to be the multitude of views straight from the canvas of an artist, with the Squaw Fingers formation just to the southeast, and Coke Ovens formation to the northeast. The Coke Ovens Trail takes folks out to that formation. Another drops down into the valley along the CCC Trail, which crosses the highway there from the Black Ridge Trail to the west.
Another opportunity for a closer look at the Coke Ovens formation is just a little way up around the next bend though, but no trail access is provided. The view of the valley below here is phenomenal, allowing one to scout the terrain along the trail before heading across the canyon. More amazing views of the Monument Canyon appear in the next few stops at Monument Canyon View and Grand View. There is no trail access from either of these, nor is there a barrier against plunging over the edge. Tread carefully here.
The last major stop along the way, or the first, depending on which direction you are going, is likely one of the best views in the park. Although, there really is not a single bad view anywhere along this route.
Independence Monument View takes in the surrounding valley vista, along with the 137-meter formation of the same name. The monolith displays an interesting piece of geologic history within the park, as a slowly eroding rock wall separating Monument Canyon on back side of it, and Wedding Canyon, directly below. There are no trails here, but just a little further up, the short 1.6 km round trip along Otto’s Trail leads out to the Pipe Organ formation, along the Coke Ovens formation.
Just up from the trailhead for Otto’s trail multiple trails converge at the Saddlehorn Visitor Center. The Black Ridge Trail returns here, somewhat paralleling the Alcove Nature Trail, another short 1.6 km round trip. The Canyon Rim Trail wanders the edge around the visitor center, and the short Window Rock trailhead out to edge near the Book Cliffs View at the east end of the visitor center access road.
The Saddlehorn Visitor Center is the primary destination at this location though. Showcasing a wealth of information about the park, trails, formations, and history of the park. The geologic educational displays are really great.
Leaving the visitor center, moving towards the West (Fruita) entrance to the park. The road winds back and forth towards that point, passing through a couple of tunnels and down into Fruita Canyon.
Along the way, stops include Fruita Canyon View, Balanced Rock View, Distant View, Historic Trails View, and Redlands View, just before Dead Man’s Curve and exiting the park. There is no trail access along any of these points.
Wildlife in the park include desert bighorn sheep in the park, along with coyotes, mountain lions, lizards, and desert bighorn sheep. Smaller mammals abound too. Grey foxes, desert cottontails, rock squirrels, and Hopi chipmunks are often hopping around here and there. One interested in birds, bugs, or reptiles will find enough to keep them busy, as well.
This is really a fantastic park to drift through on the way to points beyond, either east over the divide, or west to Canyonlands, hosting backcountry hiking, as well as camping under the stars! The pullouts mentioned are handicap accessible, but the park only offers one “equipped” camping area.
